A perfectly smooth surface is the hardest to achieve in encaustic painting. When fusing, air bubbles from the substrate rise up through the wax and cause tiny pinholes on the surface of the encaustic painting. Getting rid of those pesky little pinholes, without causing more, is the challenge we face.
Fusing to achieve a smooth encaustic surface is a skill that you develop as you become more experienced. I do love texture and for some works, I don’t mind a few holes. But, that said, encaustic artists need to know how to prevent and remove holes to create a smooth surface when necessary. When trying to achieve a smooth surface I recommend using an iron over a heat gun. Fusing with a heat gun may actually cause more air bubbles to rise. The iron is an excellent choice for this, the iron will push the top layer of wax down into the low spots and even out any texture.
How to achieve a smooth encaustic surface
- When you are trying to achieve a smooth surface, start with a good quality substrate such as Ampersand Encausticboard. An inexpensive plywood substrate will result in more air bubbles i.e. more pinholes. An alternative to Encausticboard is to prepare a good quality wood substrate with encaustic gesso or chalk paint. This will seal the wood and help reduce the number of air bubbles.
- Before applying wax preheat your substrate. I typically use a torch or a heat gun to warm up the entire surface. When working large would just heat the area I’m working on and paint in sections. Some artists use a heat gun in one hand and a brush in the other to keep the substrate warm as they apply encaustic medium.
- Always use a warm brush. Rest brushes on the edge of the heated pallet so it is kept nice and warm.
- Avoid overlapping brush strokes. Lay the next brush stroke right next to but, not on top of, the previous stroke.
- Choose a torch or an iron instead of a heat gun to fuse. A heat gun can cause more air bubbles to rise to the surface.
- Fuse in the opposite direction to your brush strokes.
- When fusing, avoid stopping midway across the painting’s surface. Keep the torch or iron moving right off the end of the panel.
- Don’t over-fuse one spot! Over-fusing will create hot spots, pools and waves of wax that are very difficult to resolve.
- Don’t backtrack over a bubble-free already smooth area. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve kicked myself for this one!
- Allow the painting surface to cool to the touch, then use a mini razor blade holder or your favourite clay loop tool to scrape the surface removing any raised texture.
- Next, warm up the area and smoosh razor-thin wax scrapings into any pinholes. You’ll need to fuse again with your torch to fuse in the scrapings and remove the scrape marks. Fuse as lightly as possible hopefully, more air bubbles won’t surface as you do.
When finished you can buff the smooth encaustic surface to a glossy shine.
If you’re struggling then keep practicing. It will take time to learn to control the wax.
Another way to achieve a smooth encaustic surface is by doing an encaustic pour. Check out How To Do An Encaustic Pour For Outstanding Results.
Do you have anything to add? Please post a comment below.
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is there a way to make a matte surface with encaustic mediums?
thanks for answering Steven
Absolutely, you don’t need to buff an encaustic painting.
Your help and advice is so very much appreciated, thank you. I was making a junk journal and put beeswax on the front cover which looked great but cracked when I slightly bent the page to turn over to the next section? I had created a bit of a patchwork effect with a few small layers and snippets of different paper. So I left the item to dry for even longer but it still happened – any advice please as I can’t seem to see this problem covered in your instructions Thanks so much again.
Hi Wendy, encaustic needs a rigid substrate or it will crack. A thin layer of encaustic paint that has been absorbed by paper would be fine.
Yup, well that is all good advice, but still have yet to produce a flawless encaustic surface on any piece over 12″ square. I got the best results with adding an extra coat of wax over the entire piece and then carefully fusing. this can minimize the pinhole bubbles, but sometimes, I just don’t want that thick of a wax surface since it can dull colors.
Note: I have found that clear resin fuses to encaustic just fine. I have one large encaustic piece that also contains some collaged bits that I covered with resin. It has a flawless surface and the construction remains stable, but….all resins yellow over time ( I now know). Also most resins are rather toxic.
I have cyanotype photos on cardstock greeting cards that I want to put encaustic wax on. my wax applied with a hake brush is streaky and has small bubbles in it. Can I repair it? I appreciate your tips. Now it looks like I’ll have to buy an iron. Thanks if you can respond.
Carole
Hi Carole, You need to fuse to remove the steaks. Yes, I would recommend an iron.
I am just starting with wax, thank you I have so much to learn.
I live in AZ where it is not possible to work outside today it will be 107…
I can’t even get started, at the moment I work on my kitchen table.
Thank you so much for all the great instruction, tips and insperation you so generously share. Mahalo and aloha from Hawai’i!
This is pure gold-thank you so much, you are very generous.
Thank you so much for sharing these techniques.
Hi Ruth, I have been a lifelong friend of Joseph Goldberg, the Jeweled earth. He started encaustic painting in the 80s. I used to make sub frames for his paintings. These were very light and stiff frames that would not warp with his torch. He stretched linen across the frames and I never saw any bubbling problem from His encaustic mixture. His paintings appear very deep and look like polished rock. I hope that you have had a chance to see his work. You can see his work at Greg Kucera gallery. – Chester